Well he just got it back on the road and looking absolutely mint.
The stance is perfect. I wouldn't change a single thing.
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| From Project Maxima |
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| From Project Maxima |
Monday, June 21, 2010
LowMax - A33 Maxima
You may remember our recent Wrench Day, setting up Zeead's A33 with a set of Tein SuperStreets and Z33 Tracks.
Well he just got it back on the road and looking absolutely mint.
The stance is perfect. I wouldn't change a single thing.
Well he just got it back on the road and looking absolutely mint.
The stance is perfect. I wouldn't change a single thing.
Rep where Rep is due.
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| From Drop Box |
Dope T from David over at Import Bible. Thanks man it was worth the wait!
Check out his blog and pick up a shirt.
Monday, June 14, 2010
"Tach Suck"
I guess after 37 years you have to expect that certain delicate mechanical and electrical components have to start failing. The tachometer in the 240z is evidently one of the more common ones.
I suffered from "Tach Suck" which is more commonly referred to as, a Sucky Tach.
The needle on my gauge face would stick in random places in the lower RPM range of the face. Sometimes it would rise to 3 grand and stay there, other times it would stick around 1.5k and flutter helplessly in between. I thought sure it had to be getting intermittent signals from the sensor (which as it turns out doesn't even exist lol). The tachometer gets its signal from the ignition coil.
In the same thread that somebody chimed in to help me with my headlight issue, another noble HybridZ member pointed out the cause of my tach issue. The gauge was having a mechanical failure.
So I reached up into the dash from underneath the steering wheel and unscrewed the two Wing nuts holding the tach in place.
There were four light bulbs in the back of the unit. Two for illumination at night, and two for turn signals.
There were only four small silver screws holding the assembly together.
Two more silver screws in the back to remove and three wire terminals.
After flicking the gauge needle back and forth, redlining the fucker to 10 grand over and over again, I noticed that the needle would only stop at the lower RPMs when the gauge face was flexed just right. If flexed in the opposite direction, it almost always returned back to 0.
So in my limitless ingenuity (lol) I jammed a couple of washers in to hold the face just right and slapped the bitch back together!
Back together and the needle is flying free!
Thanks for the tip Zmanco! Much appreciated.
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| From Z |
I suffered from "Tach Suck" which is more commonly referred to as, a Sucky Tach.
The needle on my gauge face would stick in random places in the lower RPM range of the face. Sometimes it would rise to 3 grand and stay there, other times it would stick around 1.5k and flutter helplessly in between. I thought sure it had to be getting intermittent signals from the sensor (which as it turns out doesn't even exist lol). The tachometer gets its signal from the ignition coil.
In the same thread that somebody chimed in to help me with my headlight issue, another noble HybridZ member pointed out the cause of my tach issue. The gauge was having a mechanical failure.
So I reached up into the dash from underneath the steering wheel and unscrewed the two Wing nuts holding the tach in place.
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| From Z |
There were four light bulbs in the back of the unit. Two for illumination at night, and two for turn signals.
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| From Z |
There were only four small silver screws holding the assembly together.
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| From Z |
Two more silver screws in the back to remove and three wire terminals.
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| From Z |
After flicking the gauge needle back and forth, redlining the fucker to 10 grand over and over again, I noticed that the needle would only stop at the lower RPMs when the gauge face was flexed just right. If flexed in the opposite direction, it almost always returned back to 0.
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| From Z |
So in my limitless ingenuity (lol) I jammed a couple of washers in to hold the face just right and slapped the bitch back together!
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| From Z |
Back together and the needle is flying free!
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| From Z |
Thanks for the tip Zmanco! Much appreciated.
D&B B-Day Blast-off
Didn't get to work on the car at all this weekend cause I was too busy gettin' cranked!
It is an annual tradition that myself and a bunch of work friends take the booze train down to Providence Rhode Island and set Dave and buster's ablaze.
Getting crunked on the ride down.
Those are beers 7 and 8 in progress on a 40 minute train ride.
NOBODY'S JAGER FOR LIFE!!!
I am not as good at Bootleg-DDR as I appear in this photo.
In a valiant team effort we took the house in Deal or No-Deal.
To the victors go the spoils.
Dope ass Birthday party... Until Next year!
It is an annual tradition that myself and a bunch of work friends take the booze train down to Providence Rhode Island and set Dave and buster's ablaze.
Getting crunked on the ride down.
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| From Random |
Those are beers 7 and 8 in progress on a 40 minute train ride.
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| From Random |
NOBODY'S JAGER FOR LIFE!!!
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| From Random |
I am not as good at Bootleg-DDR as I appear in this photo.
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| From Random |
In a valiant team effort we took the house in Deal or No-Deal.
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| From Random |
To the victors go the spoils.
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| From Random |
Dope ass Birthday party... Until Next year!
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| From Random |
Oh, You speak english?: KOYORAD is rad. S30Z application press release!
Oh, You speak english?: KOYORAD is rad. S30Z application press release!
Everyone knows Koyorad as one of the best all aluminum radiator manufacturers in the business. According to Yuta they have committed to releasing a Radiator for the S30 chassis.
Features:
• Koyo “R-Series” Technology
• Crossflow Design
• OE Specific mounting
• Mirror polished finish
• Nocolok-R Brazing
• Precise Tube and Fin alignment
• Billet aluminum filler neck
• 1/8” NPT Accessory Fitting and threaded plug
• Billet aluminum drain plug
Application: 1970-1978 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z MT
Koyo Part Number #: R022352
Available: Now
Info: www.koyoradracing.com
Contact: info@koyoradracing.com
Check out their press release on Yuta's blog!
Dope.
Everyone knows Koyorad as one of the best all aluminum radiator manufacturers in the business. According to Yuta they have committed to releasing a Radiator for the S30 chassis.
Features:
• Koyo “R-Series” Technology
• Crossflow Design
• OE Specific mounting
• Mirror polished finish
• Nocolok-R Brazing
• Precise Tube and Fin alignment
• Billet aluminum filler neck
• 1/8” NPT Accessory Fitting and threaded plug
• Billet aluminum drain plug
Application: 1970-1978 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z MT
Koyo Part Number #: R022352
Available: Now
Info: www.koyoradracing.com
Contact: info@koyoradracing.com
Check out their press release on Yuta's blog!
Dope.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Thank you cygnusx1!!!
I would like to thank cygnusx1 for teaching me that no matter what, Check the most likely cause of an issue first. Since my headlight was just dim, and not completely out, I assumed that it wasn't the fuse.
"the one dim light means that the right light is not getting 12v directly. It is getting feedback voltage through the other headlight. The cause is probably a bad fuse, fuse box, or connectors for the fuse box. Check all of those things. Take out the fuse box, clean it up along with the connectors, even if they appear clean."
cygnusx1 I owe you one. Email me your address and favorite brand and I will mail you a beer.
Thanks.
"the one dim light means that the right light is not getting 12v directly. It is getting feedback voltage through the other headlight. The cause is probably a bad fuse, fuse box, or connectors for the fuse box. Check all of those things. Take out the fuse box, clean it up along with the connectors, even if they appear clean."
cygnusx1 I owe you one. Email me your address and favorite brand and I will mail you a beer.
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| From Z |
Thanks.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
New gear!!!
Just got my Digital Lambda Wideband Gauge from AEM. These were discontinued when the revised the gauge to offer both AFR and Lambda readouts, so I got this for $60 shipped direct from AEM instead of the usual $200!
AND I got my super awesome H4 headlamp assemblies straight from the shores of China!
Cant be beat for $3.45 + shipping! lol
Had to pull the Blue LED ricer bits out, but aside from that they in fact appear to be headlights! Mint.
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| From Z |
AND I got my super awesome H4 headlamp assemblies straight from the shores of China!
Cant be beat for $3.45 + shipping! lol
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| From Z |
Had to pull the Blue LED ricer bits out, but aside from that they in fact appear to be headlights! Mint.
Monday, June 7, 2010
ZCCNE - Clay Nissan Z Car show 6-6-10
Clay Nissan of Norwood, MA was gracious enough to host a Z car show this weekend with the Z Car Club of New England (ZCCNE). They were grilling Burgers and Hot Dogs for all in attendance, and let us try on the new 2010 370z. (not for fat people lol)
Check out the slide show for the pics of the cars that showed up. The weather was said to be 90% chance of thunderstorms but it turned out to be a gorgeous day. Taking that into consideration I think the turn out was really good.
The highlights of the show were definitely the RB25DE and the LT1 swapped S30s. There was also a silver 6000 original mile 240z that was there parked in the garage. Absolutely stunning condition. Best I've ever seen.
For more information about the Z Car Club of New England, check out the ZCCNE forum:
http://www.zccne.org/
Check the slideshow!
Check out the slide show for the pics of the cars that showed up. The weather was said to be 90% chance of thunderstorms but it turned out to be a gorgeous day. Taking that into consideration I think the turn out was really good.
The highlights of the show were definitely the RB25DE and the LT1 swapped S30s. There was also a silver 6000 original mile 240z that was there parked in the garage. Absolutely stunning condition. Best I've ever seen.
For more information about the Z Car Club of New England, check out the ZCCNE forum:
http://www.zccne.org/
Check the slideshow!
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Brake/Fix
After realizing my brake lines were DEEP into borrowed time I decided to start cutting the 37 year old braking system out of the car.
This is what they looked like:
YIKES!!!
So, I scurried down to my local Advance Auto Parts store and pick up a pile of pre-cut/flanged/fitted lines and a bending tool. They came in straight lengths that were all just about close enough to the stock lengths to work. Give or take an inch or two.
Jacked her up and started cuttin' and guttin'!
After approx 3 hours of work I finally got the original lines out of the rear end of the car.
Thankfully, the new lines went in much much easier.
Having bled brake lines in the past using the "Pumping Friend" method, I cannot urge you enough to go out and buy a vacuum bleeder kit. I bought this Mity-Vac at Harbor freight for about $25, and it is by far the most efficient way I have ever seen to bleed lines by yourself. See below.
I would NEVER do another brake job with out it.
After about 30 minutes of vacuuming and filling DOT 3, I was off and running testing my new lines on the street.
Mint.
This is what they looked like:
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| From ZCCNE Charity Inspection |
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| From Z |
YIKES!!!
So, I scurried down to my local Advance Auto Parts store and pick up a pile of pre-cut/flanged/fitted lines and a bending tool. They came in straight lengths that were all just about close enough to the stock lengths to work. Give or take an inch or two.
Jacked her up and started cuttin' and guttin'!
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| From Z |
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| From Z |
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| From Z |
After approx 3 hours of work I finally got the original lines out of the rear end of the car.
Thankfully, the new lines went in much much easier.
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| From Z |
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| From Z |
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| From Z |
Having bled brake lines in the past using the "Pumping Friend" method, I cannot urge you enough to go out and buy a vacuum bleeder kit. I bought this Mity-Vac at Harbor freight for about $25, and it is by far the most efficient way I have ever seen to bleed lines by yourself. See below.
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| From Z |
I would NEVER do another brake job with out it.
After about 30 minutes of vacuuming and filling DOT 3, I was off and running testing my new lines on the street.
Mint.