Stumbled across this on YouTube.
Those look like Triple 45s or 50s.
The sound on this RHD NA L28 S30 is bone chilling...
Awesome.
Showing posts with label L28E. Show all posts
Showing posts with label L28E. Show all posts
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
L28: Teardown Complete
This past weekend was well spent.
Stripped down the L28 to it's bare ass.
After the valve cover came off, the next thing you have to do is to remove the timing gear. This way you can pull the chain off and remove the head from the block.
After the timing gear is off and the chain is loose, you can start slowly loosening the head bolts. These things were tight as a mofo and I had to use my jack handle as a cheater bar.
After removing the head bolts the basically lifts right off the block. No fuss whatsoever. Once I got the head off I was very glad I decided to do a refresh on this motor.
There was all kinds of loose dirt and lint and debris in the cylinders.
This valve has one of those helicopter seed things sticking out of it lol.
And I think this is hay.
Moving on, in order to remove the pistons, rods, and crankshaft you need to first remove the oil pan.
I used my impact wrench for this because there are like 1000 bolts and I'm ultra lazy.
Yuck.
There was some sort of metal stuff stuck in the oil sump too. More and more glad that I stripped it down.
After the oil pan comes off you can remove the timing cover.
Then you can pull the chain, the crank side timing gears and oil pump gear that are attached to the crankshaft.
Once all that is done, you will be able to turn the crankshaft as much as you want without binding up chains or affecting any other components. Then you can start un bolting the rods.
It is best to spin the shaft so that the piston you are unbolting is at top dead center. Then you push the rod through the rest of the block and minimize the chances of scratching the cylinder walls. Haynes recommends using a wooden hammer handle.
Pistons coming out.
Make absolutely sure you don't mix up any of the parts or their arrangements. All of the pistons are orientation specific and will be marked as to which way should be facing forward in the block.
After you get the pistons out you can remove the crankshaft bearing caps.
Make sure you keep these all aligned properly and together with their original pieces. The end caps are a pain in the balls. Just be patient and as gentle as you can.
Then just lift everything out!
Nasty.
Cleaned it up a bit. I was very happy to see that my cylinder walls were very clean and smooth. no scratches or anything so boring it won't be necessary. Just a nice hone and some new piston rings and journal bearings and I think we will be in business. There was very minimal wear on one or two of the bearings but since I have it apart it would be silly to cheap out on it.
Very educational experience. I don't think I broke anything too bad either.
I did notice that the PO had broken a couple of bolts off in in so those will have to be extracted and replaced.
If anyone has any tips or pointers or things I missed please let me know.
Aside from the beaten and half shredded Haynes manual that I got with the car, I am literally just figuring this out as I go.
Stripped down the L28 to it's bare ass.
 |
| From Z |
After the valve cover came off, the next thing you have to do is to remove the timing gear. This way you can pull the chain off and remove the head from the block.
 |
| From Z |
After the timing gear is off and the chain is loose, you can start slowly loosening the head bolts. These things were tight as a mofo and I had to use my jack handle as a cheater bar.
 |
| From Z |
After removing the head bolts the basically lifts right off the block. No fuss whatsoever. Once I got the head off I was very glad I decided to do a refresh on this motor.
 |
| From Z |
There was all kinds of loose dirt and lint and debris in the cylinders.
 |
| From Z |
This valve has one of those helicopter seed things sticking out of it lol.
 |
| From Z |
And I think this is hay.
 |
| From Z |
Moving on, in order to remove the pistons, rods, and crankshaft you need to first remove the oil pan.
 |
| From Z |
I used my impact wrench for this because there are like 1000 bolts and I'm ultra lazy.
Yuck.
 |
| From Z |
There was some sort of metal stuff stuck in the oil sump too. More and more glad that I stripped it down.
 |
| From Z |
After the oil pan comes off you can remove the timing cover.
 |
| From Z |
Then you can pull the chain, the crank side timing gears and oil pump gear that are attached to the crankshaft.
 |
| From Z |
Once all that is done, you will be able to turn the crankshaft as much as you want without binding up chains or affecting any other components. Then you can start un bolting the rods.
 |
| From Z |
It is best to spin the shaft so that the piston you are unbolting is at top dead center. Then you push the rod through the rest of the block and minimize the chances of scratching the cylinder walls. Haynes recommends using a wooden hammer handle.
Pistons coming out.
 |
| From Z |
Make absolutely sure you don't mix up any of the parts or their arrangements. All of the pistons are orientation specific and will be marked as to which way should be facing forward in the block.
 |
| From Z |
After you get the pistons out you can remove the crankshaft bearing caps.
 |
| From Z |
Make sure you keep these all aligned properly and together with their original pieces. The end caps are a pain in the balls. Just be patient and as gentle as you can.
 |
| From Z |
Then just lift everything out!
 |
| From Z |
Nasty.
 |
| From Z |
Cleaned it up a bit. I was very happy to see that my cylinder walls were very clean and smooth. no scratches or anything so boring it won't be necessary. Just a nice hone and some new piston rings and journal bearings and I think we will be in business. There was very minimal wear on one or two of the bearings but since I have it apart it would be silly to cheap out on it.
 |
| From Z |
Very educational experience. I don't think I broke anything too bad either.
I did notice that the PO had broken a couple of bolts off in in so those will have to be extracted and replaced.
If anyone has any tips or pointers or things I missed please let me know.
Aside from the beaten and half shredded Haynes manual that I got with the car, I am literally just figuring this out as I go.
Friday, October 29, 2010
My favorite things
Power tools and 40s!
Some things make life better by simply existing. Impact wrenches and Miller High Life 40s are two of those things.
This is the first time I've ever even seen a clutch attached to a motor in real life, but removing it was very straight forward.
These five bolts were all it took, and the disk just pryed off of the flywheel.
Flywheel is a little rusty, but I am pretty sure it's just on the surface.
Blasted the six bolts in the center with my Impact Wrench and made very short work of flywheel removal. That metal plate mounts between the flywheel and the block, as you can see by the outline of street funk.
Those four corner bolts will attach to the engine stand, and the center spindle that the flywheel bolted to is the crank shaft. You can see in the photo that there is some sort of brass-like flange or spacer that is mashed, split, and half missing. I have no idea what that is.
Had to pickup these bolts from Sears since Lowe's carries ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for metric. They are about 3.5" long solid shaft 10x1.5. Just in case you were wondering.
Hoist up your dirty hooker motor and line it up by semi-loosening the mounting arms.
Now bolt that bad bitch up!
And please make sure you fully tighten the mounting arm bolts. I almost forgot lol.
One of my new favorite things.
Some things make life better by simply existing. Impact wrenches and Miller High Life 40s are two of those things.
 |
| From Z |
This is the first time I've ever even seen a clutch attached to a motor in real life, but removing it was very straight forward.
 |
| From Z |
These five bolts were all it took, and the disk just pryed off of the flywheel.
 |
| From Z |
Flywheel is a little rusty, but I am pretty sure it's just on the surface.
 |
| From Z |
Blasted the six bolts in the center with my Impact Wrench and made very short work of flywheel removal. That metal plate mounts between the flywheel and the block, as you can see by the outline of street funk.
 |
| From Z |
Those four corner bolts will attach to the engine stand, and the center spindle that the flywheel bolted to is the crank shaft. You can see in the photo that there is some sort of brass-like flange or spacer that is mashed, split, and half missing. I have no idea what that is.
 |
| From Z |
Had to pickup these bolts from Sears since Lowe's carries ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for metric. They are about 3.5" long solid shaft 10x1.5. Just in case you were wondering.
 |
| From Z |
Hoist up your dirty hooker motor and line it up by semi-loosening the mounting arms.
 |
| From Z |
Now bolt that bad bitch up!
And please make sure you fully tighten the mounting arm bolts. I almost forgot lol.
 |
| From Z |
One of my new favorite things.
 |
| From Z |
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
L28: Started the Teardown
As usual I couldn't wait to start taking this thing apart.
Before I get it mounted on a stand I want to trim it down a bit.
Pulled the starter
I had no idea that these things interacted directly with the flywheel.
Makes perfect sense since it need to crank the motor. Why not use the huge gear on the flywheel (pictured) to make it easier.
After removing the started the tranny can be unbolted.
Mmmm greasy!
Now for the Fuel injection, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold.
Exhaust mani removed first.
This is what the exhaust ports on the N47 head look like. Those sleeves are supposed to help reduce emissions.
Remove the intake and FI.
Nice and Dirty!
Very interesting seeing all of this come apart in person. I have been looking at all of this online for so long that it feels eerily familiar.. like I have done it before even though I know I haven't.
Creepy.
Next is to get the clutch and flywheel removed and mount the motor on something more effective than a spare tire!
till next time...
Before I get it mounted on a stand I want to trim it down a bit.
Pulled the starter
 |
| From Z |
I had no idea that these things interacted directly with the flywheel.
Makes perfect sense since it need to crank the motor. Why not use the huge gear on the flywheel (pictured) to make it easier.
After removing the started the tranny can be unbolted.
|
| From Z |
Mmmm greasy!
 |
| From Z |
Now for the Fuel injection, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold.
 |
| From Z |
 |
| From Z |
Exhaust mani removed first.
 |
| From Z |
This is what the exhaust ports on the N47 head look like. Those sleeves are supposed to help reduce emissions.
 |
| From Z |
Remove the intake and FI.
 |
| From Z |
Nice and Dirty!
 |
| From Z |
Very interesting seeing all of this come apart in person. I have been looking at all of this online for so long that it feels eerily familiar.. like I have done it before even though I know I haven't.
Creepy.
Next is to get the clutch and flywheel removed and mount the motor on something more effective than a spare tire!
till next time...
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Milestones
I've been wanting to tear down a motor for years.
I've never had the space, time, or money...
This past summer I bought my first house, started working on my first project car, and last night I bought my first motor.
This is my 100th post. :)
Just as dirty and corroded as its new owner, I bought an L28 for my 240z.
Can't wait to tear this thing apart and start seeing with my own eyes what makes these things tick. I plan to run this with my triple Webers after a refresh.
I've never had the space, time, or money...
This past summer I bought my first house, started working on my first project car, and last night I bought my first motor.
This is my 100th post. :)
 |
| From Z |
 |
| From Z |
 |
| From Z |
 |
| From Z |
 |
| From Z |
 |
| From Z |
Just as dirty and corroded as its new owner, I bought an L28 for my 240z.
Can't wait to tear this thing apart and start seeing with my own eyes what makes these things tick. I plan to run this with my triple Webers after a refresh.
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