My favorite things

Power tools and 40s!

Some things make life better by simply existing. Impact wrenches and Miller High Life 40s are two of those things.

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This is the first time I've ever even seen a clutch attached to a motor in real life, but removing it was very straight forward.

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These five bolts were all it took, and the disk just pryed off of the flywheel.

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Flywheel is a little rusty, but I am pretty sure it's just on the surface.

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Blasted the six bolts in the center with my Impact Wrench and made very short work of flywheel removal. That metal plate mounts between the flywheel and the block, as you can see by the outline of street funk.

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Those four corner bolts will attach to the engine stand, and the center spindle that the flywheel bolted to is the crank shaft. You can see in the photo that there is some sort of brass-like flange or spacer that is mashed, split, and half missing. I have no idea what that is.

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Had to pickup these bolts from Sears since Lowe's carries ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for metric. They are about 3.5" long solid shaft 10x1.5. Just in case you were wondering.

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Hoist up your dirty hooker motor and line it up by semi-loosening the mounting arms.

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Now bolt that bad bitch up!

And please make sure you fully tighten the mounting arm bolts. I almost forgot lol.

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One of my new favorite things.

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Fuel Delivery

Sitting at work today day-dreaming about how I'm going to feed my triples.

Researching stainless braided lines, hard lines, fittings, Fuel pressure regulators, gauges, and what appears to be some sort of fuel distribution block that works with AN fittings.

SLOBBER.

From Dirty S30

From Dirty S30

From Dirty S30

L28: Started the Teardown

As usual I couldn't wait to start taking this thing apart.

Before I get it mounted on a stand I want to trim it down a bit.

Pulled the starter

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I had no idea that these things interacted directly with the flywheel.
Makes perfect sense since it need to crank the motor. Why not use the huge gear on the flywheel (pictured) to make it easier.

After removing the started the tranny can be unbolted.

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Mmmm greasy!

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Now for the Fuel injection, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold.

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Exhaust mani removed first.

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This is what the exhaust ports on the N47 head look like. Those sleeves are supposed to help reduce emissions.

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Remove the intake and FI.

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Nice and Dirty!

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Very interesting seeing all of this come apart in person. I have been looking at all of this online for so long that it feels eerily familiar.. like I have done it before even though I know I haven't.

Creepy.

Next is to get the clutch and flywheel removed and mount the motor on something more effective than a spare tire!

till next time...

Milestones

I've been wanting to tear down a motor for years.
I've never had the space, time, or money...

This past summer I bought my first house, started working on my first project car, and last night I bought my first motor.

This is my 100th post. :)

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Just as dirty and corroded as its new owner, I bought an L28 for my 240z.

Can't wait to tear this thing apart and start seeing with my own eyes what makes these things tick. I plan to run this with my triple Webers after a refresh.

De-constructive.

I have been putting off working on my cowl for quite some time now. There was considerable surface rust along the base of the cowl and i couldn't figure out a way to get rid of it without putting in a whole lot of effort (which I really hate to do).

This is how it looked when I first uncovered it.

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Once I cleaned out all of the pine needles and crap, I had to figure out a way to get my power drill and wire wheel in such a tight space to blast the rust out.

Problem solved.

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I used this (which works like a CHAMP) and a regular wire wheel to brush out the whole thing inside and out.

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Then treated it with my favorite rust conversion chemical, PickleX 20.

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Magic, as usual.

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Now it's time to remove my fenders.

First you have to remove the side markers and the headlights.

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Then I unbolted the fender all the way around and underneath.

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There were three bolts holding the front air dam onto the headlight bucket and fender.

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And shazam. She came right off.

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Full of bird seed and sunflower seeds and shit from the mice.

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Hit the whole thing with a nylon brush and a vacuum just to clean it up a bit.

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Ahh... Time to Beer.

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Anyone who is into really hoppy beers will greatly appreciate Sam Adam's Latitude 48. I will definitely recommend this one.

Ran into a bit of an issue with one of the passenger fender bolts.

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Nothing a little Dremel action cant fix!

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Badass!

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Whipped off the doors and the passenger side fender and headlight bucket.

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Lots of work ahead. I will be sanding and sealing all under and around where the fenders cover, along with the inside of the fenders. I need to make sure that we don't ever run into any rust issues again.

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Doors, air dam, and fenders, off and ready to be stripped and prepped for paint!

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Very exciting.

Awesome 240Z Commercial - feat. John Morton

John Morton showing up for the Datsun 240z in this classic TV commercial.
The commercial highlights the racing heritage and the "sophistication" of the Datsun 240z.

My buddy hit me with this on the DirtyS30 Facebook page.

Love these classic TV spots.

"It really moves out!"

Rocky Auto Paddle Shift 240ZG???

Rocky Auto continues to amaze me.
Check out this RB25DET swapped G-Nose S30 with Paddle shifters!!









The always seem to execute each vehicle with the most flawless style. Each one has its own vibe, and you can literally see the passion that they put into these Fairladys.

The RB25DET powerplant.







And the RHD Paddle shifter conversion.







I bet this thing would be fun as HELL to drive!

Kudos to Rocky Auto for their immaculate style with blending the old and the new.
Always a pleasure to see what they are cooking up.



Here is the link to buy this car too if you are baller and want to import some epic JDM street magic.

RB25DET 240ZG w/Paddle shifters